PIER AT HARWICH
Landlubbers' haven at the heart of old Harwich
I CAN’T SAY HARWICH has ever been top of my hit list of places to head for a romantic weekend getaway, but when my husband and I rolled up on the quayside outside the Pier at Harwich,
all my preconceptions were about to be blown away.
Gazing across the water to Felixstowe’s industrial
port had a certain quirky charm, while the views of the Shotley peninsula in the other direction were as pastoral as they come. Locals were sitting outside the hotel having drinks in the summer sunshine and it was tempting to just throw our bags down and join them.
The Pier at Harwich is quite grand outside – it was fashioned on a Venetian palazzo back in 1862 – while the inside has bright and fresh nautical accents.
Owner Paul Milsoms (who also owns Maison Talbooth in Dedham) fell in love with the place years ago – and then promptly fell in love with (and married) the young interior designer who arrived to transform the place.
Not bad credentials for a Room for Romance hotel!
Hit the Spot
Bang on the seafront of old Harwich.
Bedtime
Try the enormous bed in the Mayflower suite for size. There's even a telescope for you to play I-Spy.
Be Savvy
That right-on-the-docks setting has a certain quirky charm.
Be Smitten
It's all sea-bright views and sea-fresh food.
Catch of the day
This is oyster country, so it seemed
just the place to drop anchor and uncork the champers. I was soon soaking in the bath with a glass of said bubbly while my husband loafed on the sofa with a G&T and pair of binoculars – clearly fascinated by the bustle of the docks and getting a bird’s eye view of a fabulous sunset from our three huge windows.
Our room had a big bed, crisply dressed in white linen, and
pleasingly maritime flavour. It came with painted wood furniture in shades of sea-grass and aqua set against restful white, sand and stone tones.
There are
two restaurants to pick from. Downstairs is the Pier's informal Ha’Penny bistro, with its stripped floorboards, wooden tables and original railway posters (travellers of old used to arrive here aboard the Great Eastern Railway).
We opted to dine upstairs is the smart Harbourside restaurant (my husband having decided I was worth splashing out on), with its starched tablecloths and
brilliant views over the water. Our waitress fussed over us like a mother hen and nothing seemed too much trouble.
The Pier has its own lobster tanks, and seafood (landed fresh on the quayside each morning) is not surprisingly the big dish of the day here. Our deliciously fishy dinner was followed by a late-night stroll along the harbour and now-deserted pier by the old docks.
This is a great seafarer’s town, and we awoke to take deep breaths of the briny and
watch yachts and cruise liners chug past our window next morning. We followed a bracing walk along the waterfront with a mooch around old Harwich – birthplace of Captain Jones, who sailed the Mayflower to the New World.
The dock’s steamships of old have now been replaced by speedy car ferries, making the Pier at Harwich
a great base for Channel-hoppers seeking a pre- or post-voyage treat. You might even decide to ditch your deck shoes (as we did), pull down the hatches and decide to turn landlubber instead.
The Pier at Harwich was reviewed for Room for Romance by
Sarah Robinson
Click on any picture to enlarge it and move through the gallery.
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Dining in
Fresh-landed fish is on the menu daily at The Pier's Harbourside restaurant. You can also gorge on toasted goat’s cheese on walnut bread with rocket leaves, native oysters on ice and a coconut basket with white chocolate and apricot cream.
Dining out
Try Le Talbooth for fine dining or the fun and informal Milsom’s in Dedham.
Where?
Choose between the smarter Harbourside restaurant and the Ha’penny Pier bistro
What’s cooking?
Try smoked haddock fishcakes, fresh lobster and Dover sole.
Dress the part
You're in sailing country – sporty and stripey
Top table?
Grab a window table and watch the ferries and fishing trawlers steam past.
See & Do
Earn your nautical stripes by hiring a sailing boat from the town’s pier, or walk along the sea wall to Dovercourt and onto the blue flag beach – perfect for a bracing dip.
Shop
Harwich boasts a wealth of little antique shops.
Play
Make an evening of dinner and a stroll along the Ha’penny Pier.
Dates
July
Soloists, choirs and operatic troupes take to the stage at the annual Harwich Festival.
GETTING THERE
Location
The Quay, Harwich, Essex CO12 3HH
Parking
There is free guest parking.
Trains
Harwich Town station – five minutes
Taxis
GBP 5 to the station.
Airport
London Stansted – 40 miles
Rooms and suites
14 rooms
Special features
All rooms have wide beds, fluffy white towels and great views over the Stour and Orwell estuaries.
Also…
There is wi-fi internet throughout.
ESSENTIAL INFO
Rates guide
GBP 98 - 175
Open/closed
Open all year
Check-in
2pm
Check-out
12 noon
Minimum night stay?
No
Breakfast
Continental breakfast is served until 9.30am.
Room service
Available morning and evening.
Children
No restrictions
Pets
Guide dogs only
Air conditioning
No
Languages
English and German
Wedding license?
Yes – for up to 50 guests
Your contact
Paul Milsom – owner