LA CORTE DEI PAPI
Appealing gastronomic hideaway near historic Cortona
SAMSON THE DOG was sunning himself contentedly by the door at La Corte dei Papi when we arrived – and it wasn’t hard to see why. A few miles from medieval Cortona, this 18th century country house is just the place to recharge and relax in idyllic Tuscan surrounds.
Tucked behind a drive lined with cypress trees, the villa sits amid leafy gardens and courtyards. Owner David Papi, who has overseen the renovation of his former family home, moreover clearly enjoys looking after his guests. Samson does his bit too, and was soon on his feet with a tail-wagging welcome.
The setting is a treat, and honeymooners not surprisingly love it here. But it’s food that really makes this place tick. With its silver candlesticks, murals and linen tablecloths, La Corte dei Papi’s restaurant is an elegant and intimate affair – and you’re in for some top dining.
Seasonal menus major on what’s fresh and local, and the kitchen brigade are clearly keen to make their mark with an inventive take on classical Tuscan cuisine.
Hit the Spot
A peaceful village near historic Cortona.
Bedtime
We loved the luxe, space and peachy colours of the canopy-bedded Bridal suite.
Be Savvy
Be sure to eat in – dining here is a highlight.
Be Smitten
Honeymooners especially love it here.
Oven-fresh foccaccia
Bread is baked each morning at La Corte dei Papi and hunks of springy, herby foccaccia went down a treat with our chilled glass of prosecco. A pre-starter of cauliflower mousse topped with truffles was followed by a delicious pecorino cheese flan with orange sauce.
After a plate of historic wild boar papardelle, we barely had room for dessert – but changed our mind when a warm roasted apple stuffed with apple ice cream arrived, begging to be devoured. We didn’t take much persuasion to polish off the crisp Montalcino wine from the hotel’s own estate.
It’s al fresco dining around the pool in summer, when sightseeing plans can easily give way to the temptations of an afternoon lounging by the water on the gorgeous terrace or in the shade of the gazebo.
Rooms at La Corte dei Papi – some more flamboyant than others – are charm-laden and spotless with ornate Piantana lamps, baroque-style or canopied bedheads, pretty bedside furniture, painted beamed ceilings and swagged curtains. Suites have big sofas and plenty of space to chill. If you can tear yourself away, historic Cortona is just ten minutes away.
La Corte dei Papi was reviewed for Room for Romance by Mairiona Cotter
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Dining in
Cooking here is exceptional. La Corte dei Papi's young and talented kitchen brigade produce flavoursome and inventive dishes majoring on Tuscany's seasonal local produce. Nibble on freshly baked, herby foccaccia, then bite into wild game, perhaps –
pheasant, rabbit, partridge or wild boar – succulent steaks or delicious pasta dishes such as traditionally
braised wild boar with papardelle noodles and toasted pine seeds . There's an excellent wine cellar to choose from.
Dining out
You're just a short drive from medieval Cortona, whose narrow streets house a number of small and cosy places to dine. The Renaissance style Ristorante Preludio serves a broad range of Tuscan dishes.
Where?
La Corte dei Papi
What’s cooking?
Tuscan specialities share the billing with more modern and daring dishes.
Dress the part
The relais tends to attract a cultured crowd so leave your shorts and sandals behind.
Top table?
Around the pool on balmy summer evenings.
See & Do
The hilltop city of Cortona is bursting with history and art riches. You'll want to see the Duomo, the church of San Francesco and the town's fetching little streets and squares. Dating back to Etruscan times, the city of Perugia is another gem, with great art collections, churches and fabulous stores. Arezzo, too, is arresting. Trasimeno Lake is also within easy driving distance, with boating, beaches and cafes. Do call into the local weekly market in the town of Camucia, below Cortona in Val de Chaina.
Shop
Ceramics are a speciality here, with pottery flaunting traditional Cortonese patterns and colours. Artisanal lacework is much in evidence on the islands of Lake Trasimeno, and worth taking a look at.
After dark
This is early-to-bed country, but if you don't mind the short drive Cortona has a few late-night bars, and is perfect for an arm-in-arm stroll through historic streets.
Dates
July
Some of the world's greats flock to Perugia for the Umbria Jazz festival – a must on the music calendar.
August
Cortona's yearly Tuscan Sun festival is one of Italy's most prestigious cultural events, while the Palio in Siena is one of the most boisterous.
GETTING THERE
Location
Via La Dogana, 52040 Locanda Pergo di Cortona
Parking
There is free guest parking.
Trains
Camucia-Terontola station – 6km
Taxis
EUR 10 from the station.
Airport
Perugia – 30 km, or Florence – 90 km
Rooms and suites
Eight rooms and suites.
Special features
All rooms have an inviting queen-size bed and several have jacuzzi bathtubs. All have TV and wi-fi.
Also…
Pretty gardens and a centrepiece pool terrace add to the appeal.
ESSENTIAL INFO
Rates guide
EUR 210 – 290, including buffet breakfast and taxes.
Open/closed
Open all year
Check-in
3pm
Check-out
11am
Minimum night stay?
No
Breakfast
Buffet breakfast is served until 10am and it's pretty hearty fare. Expect plenty of home made pastries and preserves, fresh fruit, eggs, cold cuts and just about everything else you can think of
Room service
No, though if you need anything the friendly staff will be happy to help. And there is a babysitting service if you can't bear to leave the kids at home.
Children
Welcome, and free aged under 12
Pets
Dogs welcome by arrangement
Air conditioning
Yes
Languages
Italian, English, French and German are spoken
Wedding license?
Yes. Exclusive hire is recommended (minimum stay of three nights), so you can really make full use of the facilities. Up to 120 guests can be catered for.
Your contact
David Papi – owner