MADADA MOGADOR

Sleek riad with knockout views over the ramparts of Essaouira

WALKING THROUGH THE GNARLED, centuries-old wooden door leading to Madada Mogador felt rather like stepping into an Arabian Nights timewarp. But hey, we were in for some surprises.

Climbing a flight of stone steps, we emerged into a world of cool and cutting-edge Maroc – all iced-coffee tadelakt walls, cream tiles and high-backed suede chairs. Emerging onto the terrace, we were dazzled again by a sweep of sea, sand and seagulls as we surveyed the ramparts of medieval Essaouira.

Shopped out from three days in Marrakech and schlepped out from a tiring (if tremendous) trek in the Atlas Mountains, we were laden with bags and ready to chill – and Madada Mogador is just the place for it.

Perfect wind-down

Essaouira – Morocco’s wind surfing capital – is the perfect post-Marrakech wind-down. And you can’t beat the terrace of Madada Mogador for lazily watching the sun go down with a chilled glass (or three) of wine.  

Owner Christine Dadda, who hails from Monaco, has created a sleek, chic riad from an old merchant’s house on the very edge of Essaouira’s medina. High ceilings, tall windows and a quartet of earthy Maroc tones – sand, ivory, coffee and bitter chocolate – lend a chic urban edge. 

Unadorned tadelakt plaster walls have a coolly minimalist feel, set off by  striking brass lamps and Roman blinds. Bathrooms are high on ethnic glam, with tadelakt showers or soaking tubs and hammered brass basins.
 
There was an iPod dock by our bedside and fresh roses beside the bath. We loved all the detailing – the finely carved wood panels on the wardrobes, the beautiful Arab calligraphy (Madada Mogador’s logo) inscribed on mirrors, pillows and even pictures, and the contrast of silky-smooth tadelakt walls with the weathered original terracotta floor tiles.

All seven rooms are different. Assala is a peach, with an open-plan bathroom and big tadelakt soaking tub. Sabra has a huge bathtub in the bedroom,  while chic Cherifa has a sunken bathtub, a private terrace perfect for sunset cocktails and great views of the ramparts.

Madada Mogador’s sprawling roof terrace, with its low wicker armchairs, leather sofas and wide-open views is a magnet, and we never tired of watching the wind and kite surfers in action across the bay. 
 
There’s free wi-fi internet in the airy lobby lounge, and you won’t need to go far for eats – the building’s ground floor is home to After Five, a trendy French-Maroc cocktail bar and restaurant in shades of plum and purple. Madada Mogador’s welcoming and on-the-ball staff look after their guests a treat, too.


Madada Mogador was reviewed for Room for Romance by Valentina Heyton

Click on any picture to enlarge it and move through the gallery.

Dining in
There’s no restaurant, but you can order munchies during the day – salads, paninis and Croque Monsieur. Madada Mogador’s panoramic terrace is also the perfect place for a sundowner.  After Five, on the ground floor below, serves up a great mix of tapas, grills and chilled sounds.

Dining out
We loved the ocean-fresh fish served in the fishing huts just outside the old port – choose your fish, weigh it and eat it freshly char-grilled minutes later with fresh lemon and bread. De-lish.

Good dining spots include Chalet de la Plage and Chez Sam for great seafood, and colonial-style L’Heure Bleue for something fancier.

See & Do
Wander around the souks and the fascinating old town, go quad biking in the sand dunes, horse riding on the beach or kite and wind surfing in the bay. Staff will also help you arrange a day’s swimming and lunch by the pool at one of Essaouira’s big hotels.

You can go for a boat ride along the coast, have a camel ride or hire bikes and scooters to explore the town. You could also visit one of the olive oil farms in the nearby Argan valley.

Shop
Essaouira is a more relaxed place to shop than Marrakech, and you’ll love browsing the souks stuffed with jewellery, silks, slippers, bags and kaftans.

Spa
Three nearby traditional hammams offer body scrubs and massage, and there’s a big thalassotherapy centre at the Sofitel. You can also book a traditional Berber massage in your room.

After dark
There are numerous bars in the old town where you can drink till late – and you can always have a nightcap on the terrace.

Dates
June
See the musicians with their tasselled hats, drums and lutes at the big Essaouira Gnawa and World Music Festival. 

GETTING THERE

Location
Rue Youssef el Fassi, Essaouira

Parking
You won’t need a car, but parking can be arranged.

Coaches
Don’t shun the Supratours coaches – punctual, comfortable and air conditioned –  that ply between Essaouira and Marrakech daily for a fraction of the cost of a taxi ride.

Taxis
700 Dh approx (EUR 70) from Marrakech airport. Ask the hotel to arrange your taxi transfer on arrival.

Airport
Marrakech – 150km. EasyJet flies to Marrakech from London Gatwick and Manchester, while Ryanair flies from London Luton, Bristol and East Midlands.

ESSENTIAL INFO

Rates guide
From EUR 110

Open/closed
Closed 1-20 December

Check-in
2pm

Check-out
Midday

Minimum night stay?
No

Breakfast
Breakfast with fresh fruit, yoghurt and pancakes is served until 10am.

Room service
Available until early evening.

Children
It’s a place for couples, not kids.

Pets
No

Air conditioning
Yes – all rooms

Languages
English and French

Wedding license?
No