DARROCH LEARG
Grand living in Royal Deeside
FROM ITS VANTAGE POINT high above Ballater, you can soak up views across the Dee Valley from the windows of Darroch Learg (Gaelic for “a copse on a sunny slope”), and if perchance there aren’t any rays, fear not; true Scots warmth led by owners Nigel and Fiona Franks is ever-present in this
handsome turreted Victorian mansion.
Elegant reception rooms with antiques, watercolours, flowers and fires
enjoy a touch of the baronial, while comfy chairs and log fires cry out for companionable pre- and post-prandial drinks. Prize-winning cooking is another big draw, and chef David Mutter invites guests to choose between a fine three-course dinner and a seven-course taster.
Pace yourself (after a wee dram of the national nectar) for roasted sea scallops and breast of guinea fowl, with a white chocolate mousse to round off. The
wine list includes some 230 bins, with finer vintages remarkably well priced. Rooms all make the grade in terms of comfort and furnishings; some period, some modern.
Hit the Spot
High above the Highland town of Ballater.
Bedtime
Try the four-poster and Dee Valley views of Invercauld – one of the spacious master rooms. Lochnagar is another romantic room.
Be Savvy
This is huntin', shootin', fishin' country.
Be Smitten
Feel royal here by association (Balmoral's close by)
Lamp-lit conservatory
Be seduced by tortellini of langoustine, Aberdeen Angus fillet with tarragon sauce, and classic lemon tart in the lamp-lit conservatory restaurant. Then explore Royal Deeside country and climb Craigendarroch;
follow whisky, castle and heritage trails or go fishing, stalking, gliding and golfing. The Franks have spent 40 years polishing things here – and you can’t help feeling they have got it just right.
Darroch Learg was reviewed for Room for Romance by
Mike North
Click on any picture to enlarge it and move through the gallery.
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Dining in
The restaurant – candlelit at night – opens out into a sunny conservatory with modern art and linen-dressed tables, capturing the evening sun on long summer nights. Come here for modern Scottish cooking: chef David Mutter's menus include a
wood pigeon, shallot and foie gras pie, Royal Deeside venison served with summer greens, goat's cheese and gnocchi, and warm white and dark chocolate cake with crème fraiche.
Dining out
Owner Nigel Franks also runs the Station Cafe Brasserie in Ballater – a ten minute walk away.
Where?
The Conservatory restaurant
What's cooking?
Fillet of Aberdeen Angus beef, roast monkfish and crubeens – a Scottish starter made from slow-cooked Ayrshire smoked ham hock
Dress the part
It's relaxed but well groomed
Top table
Tables 1 to 11 are all in the conservatory
See & Do
You're within reach of Balmoral Castle, nine Scottish National Trust properties, walking and cycling in the Cairngorms national park, and a choice of whisky distilleries. There's an 18-hole golf course in Ballater and excellent fishing on the River Dee.
Shop
Pick up a fine bottle of malt whisky from one of the Speyside whisky distilleries not far away. McEwans of Perth is the place for country wear.
After dark
You'll be ready for bed after all that fresh Highland air and a good dinner.
Dates
May
Join in Royal Deeside walking week. There's a programme catering for all grades of walkers, from gentle strollers to gung-ho "Munro-baggers."
August
Ballater's Victoria Week promises that "we shall be amused."
GETTING THERE
Location
Braemar Road, Ballater, Aberdeenshire AB35 5UX
Parking
There is free guest parking
Trains
Aberdeen station – 40 miles
Taxis
GBP 50 from Aberdeen airport or station
Airport
Aberdeen – 40 miles
Rooms and suites
12 rooms and suites
Special features
Two rooms have four-posters and all are very comfortably appointed. There's wi-fi internet downstairs.
Also...
Oakhill is a separate house next door with a further five bedrooms – tailor made for private parties.
ESSENTIAL INFO
Rates guide
GBP 120 - 200
Open/closed
Closed January
Check-in
3pm
Check-out
12 noon
Minimum night stay?
No
Breakfast
Full breakfast is served until 9.30am (weekdays) and 10am (Sundays). Try local smoked haddock or smoked salmon with scrambled eggs.
Room service
Available morning and evening
Children
No restrictions
Pets
Dogs welcome
Air conditioning
No
Languages
English and French
Wedding license?
No. Receptions for up to 30 are catered for.
Your Contacts
Nigel and Fiona Franks – owners