DAR DOUKKALA

Grandly retro riad with shades of vintage Art Deco

THINK 1930s CASABLANCA and you’re half way there at Dar Doukkala. This beautiful Art Deco inspired riad (described by its owners as a guest palace), combines orientalism with the sleek lines and retro curves of the decadent ‘30s.

Step inside Dar Doukkala’s sturdy oak doors and Marrakech’s frenetic streets melt into a calming palm-filled courtyard complete with bubbling fountain, secluded corners and clusters of tables and chairs made for al fresco suppers.

Designer Jean-Luc Lemée has mixed the painted ceilings and intricate Moroccan woodwork of this stately Marrakech mansion with a distinctly Deco imprint. Far from being a temple of cool minimalism, Dar Doukkala a haven of civility in the heart of the Medina – and as rich in detail as the city around you. Just clock the exuberant chequerboard tiling, ornate balustrades, hand-painted ceilings and lofty stone pillars.

Moroccan artworks
Inside this handsome palazzo-riad, huge bedrooms and suites are arranged over rising terraces. All come with Art Deco brass fireplaces, antique pieces and Moroccan artworks, while huge bathrooms come with clawfoot tubs and elegant pedestal basins. Many have original Zellige tilework and tall stained glass windows throwing a fretwork of red and yellow light on the walls. There are '70s touches, too, in the white bucket chairs.

Room two has a fireplace with a hammered copper surround, five has an ornate ceiling  and traditional Moroccan tiled bath, while six has a beamed ceiling, terrific terrace and free-standing hearth. Palatial suite three, with its vast bed, private terrace and vibrant colours, sports fabulous Art Deco armchairs.

Dar Doukkala is about indulgent relaxation. Kick back around the open fireplace of the lounge – perfect for sipping mint tea – or check out the TV room, steam room and massage room. Head upstairs, and you’ll find a Moroccan-style tiled roof terrace complete with tropical foliage and a pool with sunloungers. Views stretch from the Medina and its mosques to the distant Atlas mountains.

You’re well located on a pedestrianised street in the Bab Doukkala area, minutes from all the action of Djemma el Fna square and the souks of the Medina. It’s also an easy walk to Guéliz, the city’s new town. Dar Doukkala’s friendly staff are happy to help organise day trips out of town.


Dar Doukkala was reviewed for Room for Romance by Amanda Kingston

Click on any picture to enlarge it and move through the gallery.

Dining in
Dinner at Dar Doukkala is cooked to order and to taste – so feel free to request Moroccan or European fare, as well as your favourite dessert. The chef also happily caters for vegetarians and special dietary requirements. Regular dishes on the menu include traditional tagine of lamb with seasonal vegetables, calamari and seafood casserole, chocolate fondue and fresh fruit tarts. We dined in the lounge by candlelight around a roaring fire on a cool winter's evening – a wonderfully atmospheric setting.

Dining out
There are scores of great Moroccan and French restaurants nearby. Worth a visit are the bar-restaurant Le Comptoir, Dar Moha and stylish, intimate Le Foundouk, a big local favourite. Italian eateries are also not hard to find if you simply fancy some pasta.

See & Do
Go Indiana Jones and explore the winding streets of the Medina, or admire the exquisite stucco work and Arabic inscriptions of the Ben Youssef Medersa, one-time home to the great theological thinkers of the Middle Ages.

Other big sights include the nearby Museum of Marrakech,  housed in a 19th century palace, the Koutoubia mosque with its classic minaret,  the colourfully tiled Saadian tombs and the flower-filled Majorelle gardens. Your hosts will be happy to arrange a trip to the nearby Atlas Mountains, where you can saddle up a donkey and visit remote Berber villages.

Shop
Bargain hunters should head for the labyrinthine souks, leading off the northern edge of Djemma el Fna square. Be ready to haggle for love potions, donkeys, gold jewellery, slippers, Berber rugs, lamps, silks and leathers.

Spa
Unlike many in-town riads, Dar Doukkala has its own pool terrace for sunning and cooling off. You can also book a choice of in-house treatments – whether traditional body massage or muscle relaxing therapy. Steam away in the hammam, then spoil yourself with a manicure or pedicure.

After dark
Take a ringside seat in Place Djemma el Fna, sip a mint tea and be amazed at the sights. Watch the endless parade of live music, snake charmers, dancing, fire eaters and market traders into the small hours.

Dates
January
Marathon de Marrakech
Runners dash to the Palmeraie district and back from Djemma el Fna square.

December
Rub shoulders with the stars at the Marrakech International Film Festival.

GETTING THERE

Location
Rue de Bab Doukkala, Dar el Bacha, Marrakech

Parking
There’s plenty of parking nearby, but you won't need a car.

Trains
Marrakech central station - 2km

Taxis
Around GBP 7 from the rail station. Avoid the airport melée on arrival by pre-booking a car transfer (approx 150 Dirhams) direct to the riad. Dar Doukkala will arrange this for you.

Airport
Marrakech Menara - 8km. Many major European airlines fly into Marrakech, including Royal Air Maroc, Air France, British Airways, and Iberia. Casablanca is a half-hour flight away or three hours by road. EasyJet flies to Marrakech from London Gatwick and Manchester, while Ryanair flies from London Luton, Bristol and East Midlands.

ESSENTIAL INFO

Rates guide
EUR 120 - 330

Open/closed
Closed 20 July – 25 August

Check-in
3pm

Check-out
Midday

Minimum night stay?
Three nights

Breakfast
Full breakfast with delicious Moroccan pastries is served until midday.

Room service
Available morning and evening

Children
Welcome

Pets
Welcome

Air conditioning
Yes – all rooms

Languages
Arabic, French and English

Wedding license?
No