ALBERGO MILANO
Romance on the shores of Lake Como
SET AGAINST A BACKDROP OF ALPINE GRANDEUR, Lake Como drips romance. Varenna’s
pastel-painted houses cluster around a church on the rocky shoreline and narrow cobbled streets tumble down to the waterfront.
Disarmingly small with just eight bedrooms, the
cappuccino-coloured Albergo Milano is set in a quiet back street with grandstand views. This gorgeous little place is
simply yet stylishly furnished, and the warmth of the welcome matches its appealing rusticity. The stars here are not simply energetic owners Bettina and Egidio, but the spectacular views.
Bedrooms at Albergo Milano have a balcony or terrace (some fronting the rippling waters of the lake, others offering side views), with a different colour scheme and individually designed tiled floors, carefully matched to the 150-year-old originals. Bathrooms are smart and mosaic tiled.
The airy lobby has an invitingly cosy chimney corner and the terrace of the aptly named La Vista restaurant – the real star of the show here – has
mesmerising views over the lake.
Hit the Spot
On the scenic shores of Lake Como.
Bedtime
Rooms 1 and 2 have huge terraces – perfect for sipping a glass of bubbly at sundown.
Be Savvy
Book well ahead! There's no direct car access (or a lift), so be prepared to wheel or carry your bags.
Be Smitten
A lakeland gem with dreamy views.
Lake picnics for two
If the main villa is full, there are also rooms to be had in neighbouring Casa Rosso and a second house down the street. One is a little flatlet with its own small kitchen and wide balcony.
When Egidio isn’t whipping up a storm in the kitchen, he and his wife create the perfect spot for incurable romantics to indulge in the hotel's motto –
dolce far niente. The sweet delight of doing nothing.
Enjoy an Albergo Milano picnic hamper for two, or savour culinary delights from the scenic restaurant terrace. A boat trip across the lake will take you to busier Bellagio, arguably Como’s jewel.
Albergo Milano was reviewed for Room for Romance by
Claudia Vicenzi
Click on any picture to enlarge it and move through the gallery.
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Dining in
Albergo Milano's La Vista restaurant offers some of the best food around – all freshly prepared using local produce. There's a daily changing three-course set menu featuring both local and some international dishes. You’ll rave over the duo of
tortelloni filled with scallops and shrimps, and black ink tortelacci with ricotta and salmon stuffing. Indulge your sweet tooth with
panna cotta with pistils of saffron.
Dining out
For a change, you could try Trattoria Il Pescatore Cavallino and Ristorante Cavatappi. Both are less than five minutes away.
Where?
Albergo Milano's Ristorante La Vista.
What’s cooking?
Try the simple yet scrummy Lake Como water bass with Chardonnay and basil sauce.
Dress the part
Carefree and relaxed
Top table?
Nab one of the three terrace tables if you can. Otherwise sit by the large French windows.
See & Do
Varenna has been dubbed La Perla del Lago di Como (the pearl of Lake Como) and is as lovely as its moniker implies. Climb the centuries-old stone steps up from the lakefront promenade and wander through the gardens at Villa Cipressi, then walk up to the medieval Castello di Vezio, with its stunning views of the lake. There is clean, safe lake swimming from a little serviced beach near the ferry.
Take a hike along the walking trail around Lake Como, and be sure to hop aboard a steamer chugging around the lake, stopping off at villas and botanical gardens. Como has a grand Duomo, while Menaggio has a beach and Bellagio occupies a picture-perfect location surrounded by water. You won't need a car, and you can even zip over to Lake Lugano in Switzerland by bus – takes an hour.
Shop
Varenna isn’t really a shopping kind of place (though you'll find a few little galleries), though if spending is the only thing to float your boat Milan is not too distant and most definitely
is a shopping kind of place.
After dark
Sip a glass of wine on the terrace, soak up the views and enjoy
dolce far niente – the sweet delight of doing nothing.
Dates
June-September
International musicians and their fans flock here for the yearly Lake Como festival, complete with fireworks.
GETTING THERE
Location
Via XX Settembre, 23829 Varenna, Lago di Como
Parking
Limited garaged guest parking is available for EUR 12 a day, and there are some metered bays in the village square. However, you won't need a car and we recommend arriving in Varenna by train, hydrofoil or boat instead. You can then do all your lake excursions by ferry or local bus – eco friendly and fun. As Albergo Milano is on a pedestrianised street, you will need to wheel your bags down to the front door from the main road, where a taxi can drop you. Don't try lugging suitcases up the steep medieval stone steps from the harbour!
Trains
Varenna-Esino station – 500m. The journey from Milano Centrale station (hourly trains) takes 80-90 minutes.
Taxis
EUR 8-10 from the station, but you can walk it.
Airport
Milan Bergamo – 60km, or Milan Malpensa – 72km. Shuttle buses operate from Malpensa Airport to Como town, from where you can catch a hydrofoil to Varenna. Ryanair flies to Milan Bergamo from various UK airports, while EasyJet flies to Milan Malpensa.
Rooms and suites
12 rooms
Special features
White-painted rooms have wrought iron beds, Zen toiletries and original tiled floors. Wi-fi is available in the lobby.
Also…
Three rooms have a terrace with superlative views over Lake Como.
ESSENTIAL INFO
Rates guide
EUR 125 - 150. Ask about the Honeymoon package if you're newly-weds.
Open/closed
Closed December, January and February
Check-in
2pm
Check-out
11am
Minimum night stay?
No
Breakfast
Buffet breakfast is served until 10am. There's great coffee and a great spread.
Room service
No
Children
Welcome
Pets
No
Air conditioning
No, though all rooms have ceiling fans to keep you cool in summer.
Wedding license?
Yes – based on exclusive hire of the property. Up to 30 guests can be accommodated.